Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Darts

Darts are triangular folds of fabric stitched to a point. They are used to give shape to fitted clothing and are another method of controlling fullness. Darts should point toward the fullest part of the body. Well sewn darts usually end about 1" from the curve to which they point. Single-pointed and double-pointed darts are the two basic types.

How to Sew Darts
Single-pointed Darts
1. Fold with right sides together, matching marked stitching lines. Pin the small dot markings together and put one pin exactly at the point.


One pin at the point


Pin through the dot on one side,

Then match the dot on the other side.


Do the same for the second set of dots.

2. Stitch from the wide end to the point. The last 2 or 3 stitches should be as close to the fold line as possible to create a sharp point without bubbles. DO NOT BACKSTITCH. Leave a longer thread tail than usual.


video


3. Tie the threads using a pin to slide the knot as close as possible to the point of the dart. Trim thread close to the knot.

Double-pointed Darts
1. Start at the center and stitch to the point on each side. The books say to overlap the stitching lines at the center about 1". Clip the dart at the center (widest part) and clip again as needed along the fold so it can be flat.


All darts should be pressed before crossing with another seam. Press the dart flat, then use a tailor's ham to press vertical dart folds toward the center and horizontal dart folds toward the bottom. For wide darts or for darts in heavy fabric you should follow the pattern guide sheet.

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