Tuesday, April 15, 2008


Pockets can be decorative, functional, or both. Side seam pockets are functional, patch pockets are decorative as well as functional.

In-seam Pockets are the easiest to make. They are attached to the garment's side seams. They can be cut as part of the garment front and back, or cut from a separate pattern piece and stitched to the seam. For heavy or bulky fabrics, cut the pocket pieces from lining fabric. All sewing is done on the inside of the garment.

1. For pockets cut separately, sew the pocket pieces to the fronts and backs, right sides together. Press seam allowances toward the pockets.

2. Pin garment front to garment back, matching markings.

3. Stitch the seam and around the pocket in one step. Reinforce at the corners. Press seam allowances flat.

4. Turn the pocket toward garment front. Clip the back seam allowance below and above the pocket to enable the seam allowances to be pressed open.

5. Add seam finishes, if needed.

Patch Pockets are stitched to the outside by hand or machine. If making a pair of patch pockets, it is important that they be the same shape and size, as well as sewn to the garment evenly.

1. Turn under the top edge of the pocket 1/4", press, and stitch.

2. Turn the hem to the right side along the fold line and pin.

3. Use stay-stitching around the pocket on the seam line, starting at the fold line of the hem. This is used as a guide for turning and pressing edges and corners.

4. Trim and grade seam allowances. Turn hem right side out and press.

5. Use stitching line as a guide to fold seam allowances under. Press.

6. Stitch the hem edge to the pocket by hand or machine.

7. Pin pocket to garment along markings. Topstitch in place. Reinforce corners with backstitching or triangular stitching.

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