Apparel Development 1 Notebook Requirements

Title Page:
Information should include: Student’s name, Teacher’s name, Course name, Semester and Year. Creativity and color should be included. Class time and computers will be offered, or may be completed at home. May be done by hand or computer-generated.

Section 1: Daily Writing
The first thing you do every day, it is posted in another blog.
Format: All daily writing beginning November 2, 2009 will be posted to the homework drop box through your gaggle.net account. If you have questions about gaggle.net please ask a teacher, Mrs. Cahoon in the library, or Coach Dodd in the interactive classroom.
Section 2: Newspapers in Education (NIE)
This is your Friday writing assignment each week. You are to first read the newspaper, then select an article. Articles that relate to our curriculum in some way should be selected first, if there is not one that week, select the article that you find most interesting. Write the title of the article and the date. Summarize the article in your own words. The next paragraph should tell your opinion or reaction to the article. As before, use the same paper until it is full, then continue with another sheet.

Section 3: Classwork
When I return it to you, place it in chronological order from first to last. If it is in your notebook, if there is ever a mix-up with grades you will have it.

Section 4: Sewing Samples
As you finish in class, mount your samples on the cardstock and place in your notebook in order from first to last. If you have the information but not the sample, keep the sheet in your notebook until complete.

Section 5: Vocats Testing
All testing will be done online at www.quia.com. You will be given your user name and password, and you must log in every time you test. You may take the test unlimited times and I will record the best grade. We will review the test as a class before it is assigned. You will be given lab time weekly to test at school, or you may log in and test from home or any computer with internet access.

Section 6: Career Information
Includes: Career Profile Sheet, Resume, Cover Sheet, and Application.

Overall Notebook
Should include all required information
Information should be in the correct section in the correct order
Should be turned in with papers that and neat, not torn and tattered, and pages should be in the rings of the notebook

Principles and Elements of Design

These are important terms to know.

First Year Students: This will be included in your notebook as a specific assignment.

Second Year Students: These terms should be in your notebook from first year. If you do not have them, you are responsible for making sure they are in your current notebook.
Terms

• Analogous
  
• Asymmetrical
• Balance
  
• Classic
  
• Color
• Complementary
  
• Cool colors
  
• Curved
• Diagonal
• Emphasis
• Fad
  
• Fashion
  
• Hue
  
• Intensity
  
• Line
• Monochromatic
  
• Neutral colors
  
• Proportion
  
• Rhythm
  
• Shade
  
• Shape
• Silhouette
  
• Space
  
• Split-complementary
  
• Style
  
• Symmetrical
  
• Texture
  
• Tint
  
• Trend
  
• Value
  
• Warm colors

Seam Finishes

Seam finishes include any method of sewing or trimming seam edges to prevent raveling. You need seam finishes on woven fabrics, usually it is not necessary on most knitted fabrics. These finishes are added after seams are stitched and pressed. The method used depends on the fabric type and the reason for finishing the seams.

Machine Zigzag Seam Finish

This is a fast and easy method for finishing fabrics that ravel. Set the zigzag setting for medium width and length. For loosely woven or heavy fabrics use a wide stitch.
Zigzag along the edge of each seam allowance.

Pinked Seam Finish

Most firmly woven fabrics can be trimmed with pinking shears. Pinking doesn't prevent raveling entirely. For more protection, stitch 1/4" from each edge before pinking. Press seam open.

Hemmed Seam Finish

This method forms a narrow, single-fold hem along the edges of the seam allowances. Also called "clean finish" or "turned and stitched" seam finish. Use on lightweight to medium-weight fabrics. Attractive on unlined jackets. Turn the edges of the seam allowances under 1/4" and press. Stitch close to the folded edge.

How to Sew a Lapped Seam

One piece is lapped over the other and topstitched in place. The lapped seam is often used with natural or synthetic leather and suede.

1. Turn the seam allowance under on the section to be lapped. Press.
For leather and suede, trim away the seam allowance.
2. Lap the folded or trimmed edge over the other piece at the seam line, wrong side to right side.
3. Edgestitch along the folded or trimmed edge.
4. Topstitch again 1/4" from the edge.

How to Sew a Welt Seam

Welt seams are less bulky than flat-felled seams and give a tailored finish on heavier fabrics.

1. Stitch a 5/8" standard seam. Press the seam open.
2. Press both seam allowances to one side.
3. Trim the seam allowance next to the garment to 1/4".
4. Stitch from the outside through the garment and the wider seam allowance. Keep stitching an even distance from the seam line.

How to Sew a Double-Stitched (Reinforced) Seam

This seam works well on curved seams such as armhole or crotch seams. The extra row of stitching gives the seam extra security.

1. Stitch a 5/8" standard seam with the right sides of the fabric together.
2. Stitch again about 1/8" from the seam line in the seam allowance. A narrow zigzag stitch may be used for this second row of stitching.
3. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching.

How to Sew a Topstitched Seam

Topstitched seams are decorative and give a sporty, tailored, or contrasting finish to a garment or home decorative item. It holds bulky seam allowances flat and emphasizes the seams of a garment.

1. Stitch a 5/8" standard seam. Press seam allowances open.



2. Topstitch along each side of the seam, through both layers of fabric. Keep stitching a straight and equal distance from the seam line.



An alternative method is to press both seam allowances to one side as indicated on the pattern. Topstitch through all three layers of fabric.

How to Sew a Flat-Felled Seam

Flat-felled seams are sturdy and durable. Two rows of stitching show on the outside of the garment.

1. Pin the WRONG sides of the fabric together.
2. Stitch a 5/8" standard seam. Press open.
3. Press both seam allowances to one side.
4. Trim the under-seam allowance to 1/8".
5. Fold in the edge of the upper-seam allowance 1/4". Place it over the trimmed seam allowance. Press.
6. Stitch close to the folded edge through all thicknesses.

How to Sew a French Seam

This seam works well on sheer fabric because no raw edges show on the wrong side. The seam looks like a plain seam on the outside and a narrow tuck on the wrong side. This seam works well on straight seams, but doesn't do well on curved seams.

1. Pin the WRONG sides of the fabric together.
2. Stitch 3/8" from the raw edges. Trim the seam allowances to 1/8". Press seam allowances open.
3. Fold the fabric along the seam line with right sides together. Press.
4. Stitch 1/4" from the folded edge.

This will give you a standard 5/8" seam allowance because 3/8" + 1/4"(2/8") = 5/8".

How to Construct a Standard (Plain) Seam

A plain or standard seam has 5 steps.

1. With right sides of the fabric together, match the cut edges and any notches.

2. Place pins about 5" apart along the seam line. Pins should be at right angles to the seam line and the heads of the pins should be easy to remove as you stitch.

3. Sew along the seam line, 5/8" from the fabric edge.

4. Secure threads at both ends. (Backstitch at the beginning and end.)

5. Press the seam flat, then press the seam open.

Stitch Lengths

The stitch length you use depends on the fabric type and the purpose of the stitching.

Regular (standard) stitching is used for permanent seams and construction details. With most fabrics 10-12 stitches per inch is fine. On our classroom machines the middle dial will be set between 2 and 3 for regular stitch length. For finer fabrics you might need 12-15 stitches per inch, and with heavy fabrics like denim and twill you will have more success with 8-10 stitches per inch.

Basting stitches temporarily hold two or more fabric pieces together until they are permanently stitched. Basting is also used on a single layer of fabric for easing, gathering and marking guidelines. Use the longest machine stitch, usually 6 per inch. On our classroom machines the middle dial is set at 4 for basting.

Reinforcement stitching gives strength to areas that will be trimmed or clipped close to the stitching. Use 15-20 stitches per inch. On classroom machines that is the setting between 1 and two on the middle dial.