Pockets can be decorative, functional, or both. Side seam pockets are functional, patch pockets are decorative as well as functional.
In-seam Pockets are the easiest to make. They are attached to the garment's side seams. They can be cut as part of the garment front and back, or cut from a separate pattern piece and stitched to the seam. For heavy or bulky fabrics, cut the pocket pieces from lining fabric. All sewing is done on the inside of the garment.
1. For pockets cut separately, sew the pocket pieces to the fronts and backs, right sides together. Press seam allowances toward the pockets.
2. Pin garment front to garment back, matching markings.
3. Stitch the seam and around the pocket in one step. Reinforce at the corners. Press seam allowances flat.
4. Turn the pocket toward garment front. Clip the back seam allowance below and above the pocket to enable the seam allowances to be pressed open.
5. Add seam finishes, if needed.
Patch Pockets are stitched to the outside by hand or machine. If making a pair of patch pockets, it is important that they be the same shape and size, as well as sewn to the garment evenly.
1. Turn under the top edge of the pocket 1/4", press, and stitch.
2. Turn the hem to the right side along the fold line and pin.
3. Use stay-stitching around the pocket on the seam line, starting at the fold line of the hem. This is used as a guide for turning and pressing edges and corners.
4. Trim and grade seam allowances. Turn hem right side out and press.
5. Use stitching line as a guide to fold seam allowances under. Press.
6. Stitch the hem edge to the pocket by hand or machine.
7. Pin pocket to garment along markings. Topstitch in place. Reinforce corners with backstitching or triangular stitching.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Buttonholes
Used on overlapping edges such as waistbands, pockets, center fronts and backs, collars and cuffs. Decorative as well as functional, buttons are strong fasteners that can withstand pulling and strain.
Buttonholes are always completed first, then the buttons are sewn onto the garment. Buttons are sewn with a double strand of thread. Use heavy-duty thread for extra strength on heavier fabrics.
To determine buttonhole length, add the diameter of the button, the thickness of the button, and 1/8" to allow for fabric thickness.
Before sewing buttonholes on a garment, sew a sample on a piece of scrap fabric. Make sure you have enough bobbin thread to finish the buttonhole before you begin. Follow the instructions in the sewing machine manual to stitch the buttonhole. Be careful when cutting the buttonhole with small, sharp scissors. Cut from the center to each end, being careful not to cut through stitching.
Buttonholes are always completed first, then the buttons are sewn onto the garment. Buttons are sewn with a double strand of thread. Use heavy-duty thread for extra strength on heavier fabrics.
To determine buttonhole length, add the diameter of the button, the thickness of the button, and 1/8" to allow for fabric thickness.
Before sewing buttonholes on a garment, sew a sample on a piece of scrap fabric. Make sure you have enough bobbin thread to finish the buttonhole before you begin. Follow the instructions in the sewing machine manual to stitch the buttonhole. Be careful when cutting the buttonhole with small, sharp scissors. Cut from the center to each end, being careful not to cut through stitching.
Hand Stitching
Use hand stitches to finish garment hems and sew on fasteners. Some hand stitches are also used to baste, reinforce, or decorate as well as mend.
Either make a small knot or take two small stitches on top of each other on the wrong side to secure the beginning and end stitches.
Basting stitch: This is temporary stitching to mark or hold fabric layers together. It is removed after permanent stitching is finished. Even basting is used to hold seams together for fitting or until permanent stitching is complete. These stitches are about 1/4 " long and even on both sides of the fabric. Uneven basting is used for marking or to hold a hem in place for stitching. Sew 1" stitches on the top side of the fabric and 1/4" stitches on the bottom. You can take several stitches then pull the needle through.
Running stitch: The easiest hand stitch, running stitch is used to gather, ease, tuck, quilt, or sew seams that get little or no strain. Use tiny, even stitches 1/16" to 1/4 " long.
Backstitch: This is the strongest hand stitch and replicates machine stitching. Use it to repair seams and securely fasten thread ends. Use tiny running stitches, beginning by inserting the needle at the end of the previous stitch. Bring the needle out one stitch length in front of the thread. Keep inserting the needle in the end of the last stitch and bringing it out ahead of the thread. The underside stitches will be twice as long as the upper side stitches.
Slip stitch: Used to attach one folded edge to another piece of fabric such as hems, linings, trims and patch pockets. Slip the needle inside the fold for 1/4", pick up one or two threads of the other fabric, then continue by stitching through the fold and then the other fabric.
Lock Hemming stitch: Used to hold hems in place, this stitch is more difficult to pull out than the traditional hemming stitch. Take a tiny stitch in the hem, hold the thread back and away from the hem, then take a small stitch in the garment. When pulled smooth, the thread should "lock", making it more difficult to pull out. Space stitches about 3/8" apart.
Either make a small knot or take two small stitches on top of each other on the wrong side to secure the beginning and end stitches.
Basting stitch: This is temporary stitching to mark or hold fabric layers together. It is removed after permanent stitching is finished. Even basting is used to hold seams together for fitting or until permanent stitching is complete. These stitches are about 1/4 " long and even on both sides of the fabric. Uneven basting is used for marking or to hold a hem in place for stitching. Sew 1" stitches on the top side of the fabric and 1/4" stitches on the bottom. You can take several stitches then pull the needle through.
Running stitch: The easiest hand stitch, running stitch is used to gather, ease, tuck, quilt, or sew seams that get little or no strain. Use tiny, even stitches 1/16" to 1/4 " long.
Backstitch: This is the strongest hand stitch and replicates machine stitching. Use it to repair seams and securely fasten thread ends. Use tiny running stitches, beginning by inserting the needle at the end of the previous stitch. Bring the needle out one stitch length in front of the thread. Keep inserting the needle in the end of the last stitch and bringing it out ahead of the thread. The underside stitches will be twice as long as the upper side stitches.
Slip stitch: Used to attach one folded edge to another piece of fabric such as hems, linings, trims and patch pockets. Slip the needle inside the fold for 1/4", pick up one or two threads of the other fabric, then continue by stitching through the fold and then the other fabric.
Lock Hemming stitch: Used to hold hems in place, this stitch is more difficult to pull out than the traditional hemming stitch. Take a tiny stitch in the hem, hold the thread back and away from the hem, then take a small stitch in the garment. When pulled smooth, the thread should "lock", making it more difficult to pull out. Space stitches about 3/8" apart.
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